Raglan Sleeves versus Kimono Sleeves

One way to make a statement with your wardrobe is to have special types of sleeves.  Two of the most popular sleeves at this time are raglan and kimono sleeves.  Each type of sleeve has it's own uniqueness to it that makes people want to wear it.  They both have very many different qualities, and your decision in picking between garments will often have to do with your preference for either of these types of sleeves.

Kimono sleeves are the easiest type of sleeve to construct because they are simply cut as one with the rest of the garment.  Labor costs are minimized because separate pieces of fabric are not needed to be sewn onto the garment.  At the same time, kimono sleeves often cost more than other types of sleeves because material utilization is often poor.  Below is a picture of a blouse with kimono sleeves.

It can become a problem if kimono sleeves fit too closely to the underarm, because wrinkles will appear.  At the same time, if the sleeve fits too loose, extra fabric will form in folds in the underarm area.  Both of these types are subject to strain in the underarm area when the person who is wearing the garment moves; however, the more fitted kimono sleeve will have more strain.  It is also key when sewing kimono sleeves to use the correct stitch type.  If you want to sew a high-quality garment with kimono sleeves, reinforcements should be used in the underarm seam with stay tape to strengthen it.

One way to increase the roominess and comfort of the sleeve is to add a gusset to the underarm of the kimono sleeve.  This will allow the wearer to move more and reach farther while causing less strain in the underarm area.  Gussets can be added to any type of sleeve to add roominess; however, they are most common in kimono sleeves.  When you see a kimono sleeve with a gusset, you will know that it is a sign that the garment is of better quality.

Many celebrities are choosing to wear kimono sleeves.  In the picture on the right, you can see Sandra Bullock and Jennifer Lopez wearing garments with kimono sleeves.

Another popular sleeve type is a raglan sleeve.  Raglan sleeves are characterized by having a diagonal seam that runs from the underarm to the neckline of a garment.  Raglan sleeves can be set to the garment either using flat construction or in the round construction.  The least expensive and most common way to attach the sleeve is by attaching the flat sleeve panels to the flat garment and then sewing the side seams of the garment and the underarm seam of the sleeve.  You would do this in a continuous and uninterrupted seam.  This is the flat construction method.  If you were to choose to make a raglan sleeve with the in the round construction method, you would need to sew the side seams in the garment and then sew the sleeves into tubes before attaching them to the garment. By using the in the round construction method, your garment will be more comfortable; however, it will be more expensive, and so it is rarely found in low-price lines. Below are two pictures of garments with raglan sleeves.

One way to release fullness in the shoulder area of the raglan sleeves is to use darts or dart substitutes.  This will help the sleeve cover the rounded portion of the upper arm.  Raglan sleeves can also be split, which means two sleeve panels are sewn together with a seam down the length of the arm and this will shape the sleeve to the shoulder and the neckline.  Darted raglan sleeves provide a tailored look; however, they don't fit a majority of the people due to the close fit. One way to fit a larger crowd is by using gathers.  If you use gathers in a raglan sleeve, this will provide a feminine look.  These garments are often used in women's and children's clothing, and not in menswear.  Below is a picture of a celebrity, Demi Lovato, wearing a garment with raglan sleeves.

If you were to pick a garment with one of these types of sleeves, which one would you prefer? Why?