Shoulder Pads: Are they making a comeback or should they stay in the closet forever?

It is often a very controversial topic when women start talking about shoulder pads.  It seems like you either love them or hate them.  Some people want them to come back into the fashion industry again, while other people want them to stay hidden away forever.  One thing that is for sure is that some people are trying to make shoulder pads come back again.  The picture shown below shows that even designers are showing garments on the runway which have shoulder pads in them to try to help this trend make a comeback. 

The way in which you attach shoulder pads is important.  Shoulder pads need to be carefully positioned in order to follow the lines of the body and to provide a smooth look.  If the garment is lined, the shoulder pads should be attached between the fabric and the lining.  If the garment is not lined, the shoulder pads should be tacked to the shoulder and armscye seams.  In a higher-quality garment, there should be more tacks in order to secure the attachment better.  It is important to make sure that the tacking stitches aren't too tight, because this will prevent the shoulder pad from moving freely with the wearer's movement. It can also distort the garment.  When you tack stitches, it is important to make sure that they are inconspicuous from the outside of the garment.  It is also important to make sure that the tacking stitches aren't too lose, because then the shoulder pad might not be fully secure.

It is common for consumers to complain that shoulder pads shift during wear, twist while washing, and fall out of the garment due to poor attachment.  In order to avoid these problems, it is common for designers to use hook and loop tape.  This will allow the shoulder pads to be easily removed when the garment needs to be washed.  It also makes it very easy to reattach the shoulder pads to the garment for wear once again.  You are unable to use hook and loop tape (Velcro) on lightweight garments, however, because it is too bulky.

Below are pictures of Victoria Beckham and Rihanna wearing shoulder pads.  

Below is a picture of Lady Gaga wearing shoulder pads.  Lady Gaga takes this trend to the extreme by wearing a garment with extremely high shoulder pads.

What is your opinion on this subject? Should shoulder pads make a comeback, or should we bury them deep in the closet forever?

Raglan Sleeves versus Kimono Sleeves

One way to make a statement with your wardrobe is to have special types of sleeves.  Two of the most popular sleeves at this time are raglan and kimono sleeves.  Each type of sleeve has it's own uniqueness to it that makes people want to wear it.  They both have very many different qualities, and your decision in picking between garments will often have to do with your preference for either of these types of sleeves.

Kimono sleeves are the easiest type of sleeve to construct because they are simply cut as one with the rest of the garment.  Labor costs are minimized because separate pieces of fabric are not needed to be sewn onto the garment.  At the same time, kimono sleeves often cost more than other types of sleeves because material utilization is often poor.  Below is a picture of a blouse with kimono sleeves.

It can become a problem if kimono sleeves fit too closely to the underarm, because wrinkles will appear.  At the same time, if the sleeve fits too loose, extra fabric will form in folds in the underarm area.  Both of these types are subject to strain in the underarm area when the person who is wearing the garment moves; however, the more fitted kimono sleeve will have more strain.  It is also key when sewing kimono sleeves to use the correct stitch type.  If you want to sew a high-quality garment with kimono sleeves, reinforcements should be used in the underarm seam with stay tape to strengthen it.

One way to increase the roominess and comfort of the sleeve is to add a gusset to the underarm of the kimono sleeve.  This will allow the wearer to move more and reach farther while causing less strain in the underarm area.  Gussets can be added to any type of sleeve to add roominess; however, they are most common in kimono sleeves.  When you see a kimono sleeve with a gusset, you will know that it is a sign that the garment is of better quality.

Many celebrities are choosing to wear kimono sleeves.  In the picture on the right, you can see Sandra Bullock and Jennifer Lopez wearing garments with kimono sleeves.

Another popular sleeve type is a raglan sleeve.  Raglan sleeves are characterized by having a diagonal seam that runs from the underarm to the neckline of a garment.  Raglan sleeves can be set to the garment either using flat construction or in the round construction.  The least expensive and most common way to attach the sleeve is by attaching the flat sleeve panels to the flat garment and then sewing the side seams of the garment and the underarm seam of the sleeve.  You would do this in a continuous and uninterrupted seam.  This is the flat construction method.  If you were to choose to make a raglan sleeve with the in the round construction method, you would need to sew the side seams in the garment and then sew the sleeves into tubes before attaching them to the garment. By using the in the round construction method, your garment will be more comfortable; however, it will be more expensive, and so it is rarely found in low-price lines. Below are two pictures of garments with raglan sleeves.

One way to release fullness in the shoulder area of the raglan sleeves is to use darts or dart substitutes.  This will help the sleeve cover the rounded portion of the upper arm.  Raglan sleeves can also be split, which means two sleeve panels are sewn together with a seam down the length of the arm and this will shape the sleeve to the shoulder and the neckline.  Darted raglan sleeves provide a tailored look; however, they don't fit a majority of the people due to the close fit. One way to fit a larger crowd is by using gathers.  If you use gathers in a raglan sleeve, this will provide a feminine look.  These garments are often used in women's and children's clothing, and not in menswear.  Below is a picture of a celebrity, Demi Lovato, wearing a garment with raglan sleeves.

If you were to pick a garment with one of these types of sleeves, which one would you prefer? Why?

Urban Outfitters and Topshop New Trend: Embroidered Clothing

When most people think of clothing that contains embroidery, they think of clothing for older people that their grandma might make.  A fashionable clothing store like Urban Outfitters is not one of the places that comes to mind when you hear of stores that sell embroidered clothing.  In recent months, a big trend that has taken over their clothing is embroidery.  Embroidery is known as decorative stitching used to form designs or patterns.

Embroidery comes in many different price lines.  Embroidery requires thread that is strong, fine, smooth, and lustrous, and so it is important that you buy the right thread.  Embroidery takes a long time to do when hand-sewn, and so it is very rare to find ready-to-wear clothing that is not machine embroidery.  While there is a wide variety of hand embroidery, it is primarily found in couture and other high-priced apparel. The picture to the right shows garments that contain embroidery from the store, Topshop.

It is important to back your embroidery with a light interfacing to support the area.  This interfacing will prevent puckering, make the stitches smooth and attractive, and strengthen the fabric to prevent tearing.  It is common in knits to find puckering caused by embroidery, which can be fixed by slowing down the speed of sewing and production, and reducing the density of the stitches. High quality embroidery will have a high stitch count so that the embroidery covers the fabric completely with thread. Embroidery can be seen in clothing, as well as purses, like the picture shown below.

There are different types of embroidery as well.  A monogram is embroidery that forms the initials of the wearer's name.  Monograms often give the impression of the garment being custom-made, even though it can be purchased ready-to-wear.  Cutwork is another type of embroidery in which holes are cut in the fabric which are surrounded by embroidery.  This type of embroidery was originally handicraft, but now it is done primarily by machine.  Trapunto is another type of embroidery.  This form of embroidery resembles quilting. 

Many stores similar to Urban Outfitters, like Topshop, are expanding their clothing by adding embroidered garments to their lines.  Below are pictures of garments that are found in Urban Outfitters and Topshop that contain embroidery.

Exposed Zippers Galore

In the apparel industry, there are many different types of zippers used for different reasons. Some are slot zippers, some are fly zippers, there are even invisible zippers.  One trend that has been seen very commonly lately is exposed zippers.  Exposed zippers are zipper chains that are intentionally shown.  Zippers that are exposed are a type of slot application.  Below are some pictures of dresses featuring these exposed zippers:

Michael Kors Collection

Exposed zippers are decorative, and are especially decorative in novelty zippers.  Many designers have started using exposed zippers in their garments in order to have it be a statement piece.  I find this look very unique and like it a lot. Not only are exposed zippers seen in dresses, it is common to find them in accessories as well.  Below is a purse from Glam Noir and a stiletto from Pierre Hardy.

What does everybody think about exposed zippers?  Would you buy a garment with this feature?